A Beer 45-Million-Years in the Making
I first heard of this unique beer brewed from ancient yeast from the NPR show Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me and it captured my imagination. The Fossil Fuels Brewing Co. of Northern California has done something amazing – I mean more amazing than brewing beer. I think we can all agree that brewing beer is pretty amazing in and of itself.
Back in the beginning, or at least during the Eocine epoch, when the trees were growing, sap oozing forth, trapping life with its stickiness. The sap hardened and over the span of time turned to amber. Dr. Raul Cano took this amber and unlocked the elements of life it had captured. Dr. Raul Cano and Chip Lambert isolated yeast strains from samples of amber. These strains resembled Saccharomyces cerevisiae – common brewing and baking yeast. The original research was creating a library of ancient organisms, the yeast was a glorious side discovery. Chip Lambert described the process of going from discovery of the yeast to the creation of beer:
Some had biochemical profiles similar to typical brewer’s yeast, so the natural question was, “I wonder what beer made from these strains would taste like?” The answer was, “very good”, as were breads made with some of the other strains. It has taken a while to develop the idea, but the beer is excellent and…unique.
I couldn’t help but wonder about the first taste of a beer made with a yeast that is 45 million years old. Chip assured me, “Of course there was trepidation, but like most chefs (I think, because I hate cooking, but I watched Paul Prudhomme do it once), you can always spit it out if you don’t like it.” Luckily that was not necessary. Chip’s reaction after that first sip was “Wow, this is really good beer!”
There still was something about this process I found a bit disturbing. Could this yeast burst free from the lab? Is it a threat? I saw Jurassic Park. I know what could happen. Or at least my over active imagination assumed. Chip straightened me out and gave me some scientific reassurance.
We call our strains the “Mothers of all yeasts” we work (cook, brew or make Vegemite) with today. Physiologically, none of the ancient isolates are so unique that their modern counterparts are not identifiable. Just as there are many organisms currently being isolated and cultured from extreme or unique environments on Earth (and Mars?) that humans have not or rarely have contacted and they do no harm, the ancient organisms utilize the same biological processes and succumb to the same stresses as the “modern” (that maybe a misnomer) microbes.
So that is the history of the beer, what do people really think of it? Jay R. Brooks from Celebrator Beer News sampled Tyrannosaurs-Rat beer brewed by Guerneville’s Stumptown and compared it to an identical pale ale differing only in the strain of yeast. “T-Rat is smoother, with softer fruity flavor characteristics and just a touch of lemony sweetness that isn’t tart.”
Sounds downright tasty to me. Sadly, this unique brew is only going to be available at certain bars and pubs around Northern California.
I’m making it a personal mission to seek out this unique taste crafted with ancient yeast. Part of the profit of the beer gets funneled into alternative fuel research, which makes the name of the brewing company, Fossil Fuels, a delightful pun. I’m a sucker for puns.
